Usually jet lag coming back to the ole Western Hemisphere is a one or two day headache, tops. I sit here writing for you at 6:15 on Christmas morning because mine has been with me since Friday. So please, let me be the one to even outflank the East Coast majority on this, what I wish for everyone to be a
very merry Christmas. (I hate writing things like "Merry Christmas" in lieu of the spoken word because I feel like it is mired in Punctuation Limbo Land. Do you really go with the exclamation? I think it sounds a little ... loud.
"Merry Christmas! HAPPY NEW YEAR! AHHHH!!)
It has certainly been a merry one for me. No one expected to see me for at least a year when I left for Tanzania last July, and I went to Africa fully anticipating to be decorating a banana tree come December. It was to be the second year in a row that I'd be gone for the holidays. Last year, I spent this day with my friend Živko in a small, snow-covered Serbian mountain town called Nova Varoš -- and since Serbia is an Orthodox country, which has a calendar two weeks off from our own, the only one celebrating Christmas on December 25 for hundreds of miles was this guy. Missing Christmas sucks, to put it bluntly, so to hear my mom offer to buy me a round trip ticket to come all the way home from East Africa -- just for these two weeks -- sent a tingle up my spine. I hate being away from my family during the holidays. I wanted to go home.
But there was a problem: Hunter. He's my best friend, and we honestly haven't spent more than a few hours apart from one another since I landed in Charlotte en route to Tanzania. I wasn't going to leave him alone in Zanzibar on the one day of the year that no one, religious or not, should be alone. I told my mom that while I'd love to take her up on the offer, it would totally depend on whether or not I could convince our friend Bino, who is living in Ethiopia for the time being, to come down and take my place in keeping Mwindaji company. When Bino found out I was only pumping up a Zanzibar Christmas so that I could hand him the baton and dip back to the U.S., he feigned like he might not come -- after all, he is a little bit closer to me than he is to Hunter, seeing as we were actually roomates for a year, and that we visited one another two times during my trip in the Balkans last year. But like they always do, Bino caved. After all, he needs me to transport those camera lenses he ordered on Amazon back to Africa for him. Nothing like a Jew without encumbering Christmas family responsibilities to come through in the clutch for you in a situation like that.
I owe Bino perhaps the biggest Christmas thanks of all, because it was he who made it possible for me to give the biggest Chistmas gift of all to the few people who missed me:
a surprise trip home for Christmas and New Year's.
Excluding a few people who wouldn't be in town, it was a surprise to everyone but my mother, the one who bought the ticket; Miguel and Andrew, who I asked to pick me up; and Pig, who actually did pick me up, after a 28-hour, Kilimanjaro-to-Dar Es Salaam-to-Amsterdam-to-a five hour wait-to-Houston marathon. I got about two hours of sleep throughout, an amazing feat considering the overwhelming allure of the Amsterdam airport's open "meditation center" and its No Cell Phone, black leather La-Z-Boy chair lounge, situated right next to one another for your cure to a stressful delay. When we finally rolled into IAH, like Jerry after a few nights of living through the red glare of Roger's "Bad" Chicken in Kramer's apartment, I was
"on no sleep."(May I add something? I love coming back to America from abroad because of the presidential portrait hanging in every customs line. I am absolutely certain that they haven't switched this photo of W since the day he was awarded the Florida ballots. I feel like when it finally comes down next year to make way for the shot of the next Huge Embarrassing Failure [Hillary or another G.O.P.?], there will be a rectangle of slightly different shaded white paint showing where the frame around Bush's smiling mug used to chill. Every time I'm greeted by this portrait, I smile and I sigh. So young, hair so devoid of gray and even white, wrinkles few and far between, eyes ready to conquer the world, with plenty of time for leisure on the side. So many things I want to warn him about,
"and yet tragically, I cannot," in the words of Jim Halpert. Oh, George. George, George, George.)
"My dad's frend Mr. Baker trad to warn me about some 'forn' pallcy' thang er somethin', but I was too busy watchin' that Frank Catala...not....Catala.....not goin' be able to pronounce his name, whoever he is, up to bat for the Rangers."
I subsequently went out to make revelry with my friends every night after that. I was feeling the holiday spirit, what can I say? Late nights that lasted until the early hours of four, six and 5:30, respectively, are why my body pretty much just never left Africa Time. But at least I finally saw the
Soulja Boy YouTube video, got to rock the Houston Oilers Starter (Apex, actually) jacket
in Houston for once, and blatantly (yet unintentionally) insulted my good friend Will's new girlfriend by telling her how disgusting girls with lower back tattoos were, only to find out three seconds later that
"Yes," she herself had a lower back tattoo, and
"No," I could not
"see it," which thereby eliminated any hope of an
"Oh, well that one is fine," escape route.
Eat, drink and be merry? More than I could have ever asked for. Having been running on fumes since arriving, I conked out in my dad's leather chair last night right after the last Christmas Eve mass guest left our house. No one in my loving family felt the need to wake me up from a position that would have left me in need of a Jewish chiropractor on Christmas morning, but that wouldn't be hard to find, I'm sure. At around 10 p.m., groggily coming to, and realizing that I better get myself up the stairs and into bed if I didn't want to be spending time with Dr. My Eight Day Holiday Was Two Weeks Ago the next day, I conked out for the night.
Then, I woke up at 5 a.m. For good.
I am my father's son. Both of us love those hours of the day or night when the rest of the city is asleep. We find peace in the stillness, and we both do our best work in its midst. For The Bob, it's bills, bills, and taxes. For me, it's writing. I do my best writing in the stillness. The quiet allows me the peace to gather my thoughts, and the clarity to let them flow effortlessly through the tips of my fingers.
That's why, after opening the
"Sierra Leone's Refugee All Stars" DVD I got for my friend John Stewart (not
that Jon Stewart, no) intending to watch myself while my family slept, I thought to check if maybe my dad had left his computer docked in overnight. He usually takes it downstairs into his room, but not today. It was sitting there waiting for me, asking me to write something. I could watch the DVD some other time, I decided. Because, and I'll let Robert Nesta take it from here,
"I've got so much things to say right now, I've got so much things to saaaaay."Christmas morning used to be something entirely different for me. That's because it was all about
me.
Will I get the right size Barkley's? Will my dad ease my oppression and get me that North Face backpack that I need so urgently? And Jesus, will you finally send one of those miracles my way and get my mom to cave into buying me a race car bed? I'm actually still openly voicing that last question, but at the ripe old age of 23 and 10 months, I've come to a different stage in my life. Christmas is no longer really about the gifts -- all I asked for were some basketball shoes and a green Kevin Garnett jersey, but that's just because I need to play the part of "B Show" when I go back to ball at Soweto. Christmas has turned into something bigger than the greed for material things.
And if you thought I was going to go into a religious theme in this paragraph, I apologize for laughing.
Christmas is all about feeling thankful for what I have in this world. My eyes are welling up with tears as I write that. How can I ever fully express gratitude like this? After the things I have seen in the last five and a half months in a village in northern Tanzania, and in six months in Yugoslavia before that, I know I don't deserve any of the things I was born into. How do I explain to my friends from Strake, most of whom have never even been outside of America, and who aren't exactly visiting our own poverty stricken areas on a regular basis, just how
lucky we all really are? Before I started traveling, I knew that cerebrally. But after learning all the stuff I've learned since June 2006, I now know it viscerally. And it fills me with guilt.
Everything I'm looking at in this room is something my neighbors in Patandi could never afford. The computer, the Sharper Image desk lamp, the Intercom phone, the digital picture frame, the big screen TV, the leather computer chair, the pictures on the shelves displaying scenes from sailing trips to the Bahamas, fishing trips to Guatemala, debutante balls at the Houston Country Club and graduation days from out-of-state universities. I did nothing to deserve any of it. Some of my neighbors in Tanzania don't have shoes. And yet here I sit, a child of fortune, trying to come to terms with why I am so blessed.
Who do I express this gratitude to? A baby in a manger? I find it hard to do that when I have seen so much suffering and inequality in the world. The meek shall inherit the earth, eh? Kinda clashes with "God Bless America," but we'll see. It is ironic, though. Even though organized religion has had its run with me, and I don't know if I'll ever be back, I still completely buy into the same basic messages Christianity is all about: love, respect, humility in the face of something greater than yourself, forgiveness, but most of all, gratitude. And there is just something about the Christmas season that evokes a sort of self-administered attitude check.
Family comes to the forefront, first and foremost. Sentimentality and a ton of stored numbers hikes up my cell phone bill. Hugs are doled out liberally by the most conservative of friends. Those basic messages that not just Christianity, but every faith promotes as the end all be all of human existence seem to increase in importance as well. It makes me realize what a bad person I am, but then again, we're all guilty of the same vices to a certain extent, so at least I'm not alone. I mean come on, even Jesus sinned! (We don't even need Dan Brown to send the entire Christian belief in a sinless Jesus tumbling down; let's look right in the Bible!
Matthew 21:12 doesn't sound like the kind of guy I'd necessarily call the Prince of Peace. I mean, yeah, you definitely should not be selling doves and screwing tourists over on the exchange rate right in front of the Temple, but flipping their tables over and driving them away because of it? Where does this guy think he his, his father's house or something?)
Love thy enemy, shmove thy enemy
But I digress. Christmas, originally a pagan celebration of the sun god, only to be transformed into a celebration of the birth of Jesus, has once again been transformed into a celebration of a different kind by modern day civilization. For little kids, it's all about consumerism -- molding young Americans into good, capitalistic citizens of the future. But for old men like me and my dad, it's about family, plain and simple. For some, it's still about baby Jesus, and hell, maybe there even still some pagans out there worshipping the sun god. But family is what it represents for the masses.
The Bob, who has nine younger brothers and sisters and who is a bigger sucker for family moments than Danny Tanner, would surely agree with me. And to tell you the truth, it was coming home to see him that meant the most to me, just as I knew it would mean more to him than to anyone else in my family for me to come home. The
Prodigal Son has returned, after all, even if it is just for two weeks before he goes back off into the banana trees of East Africa. As I polished and edited my story this morning, the sun having already risen and the stillness starting to turn into the first stirrings of the new day, Christmas day, The Bob came upstairs to find me sitting at his desk. It's the same desk he sits at every night, wishing his family were all together, looking at photos of past moments spent with them, wondering if his only son will ever come home again for another Christmas. I could tell he felt an immense sense of contentment at that moment, when he ran his hands through my hair and struggled to get out the most basic of sentences.
"I'm happy to have you home," he said, trying to force a smile that only served to mask the buildup of emotion. "For me, Christmas is having everyone..." he took a moment to compose himself before getting out just one last word. "Together."
Now it was my turn to fight back tears. I couldn't look at him if I was going to succeed in doing so, so I just stared off into the distance for a few seconds.
"Me too." That was all I could muster. That was all that needed to be said.
Merry Christmas everyone.
AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR! EXCLAMATION!! AHHHHH!!