The Grateful Bed
Lithuania, Tanzanian markets, and my new friend Mantas

I never made it to Lithuania during my trip. But I have had a strange fascination with that country since I was eight years old. Ever since the '92 Olympics in Barcelona.
We all remember the Dream Team. Jordan, Bird, Magic, Barkley, and of course, Laettner. I'm not sure who dominated more: U.S. forces in the Gulf War, or that team in Spain. I mean, they simply ran shit. It was very symbolic, a fitting start for a post-Cold War America rearing to go. The Russians were done, not only geopolitically, but on the hardwood, too. No one could stop us now. The gold? A mere formality, something to be picked up like dry cleaning, in between signing autographs for opposing players and taking a stroll down Las Ramblas. As Tener would say,
"Who could forget?" No one. Not with that team. I bet you not even John Hollinger could tell you who won the silver in that year's Games. It was the best and the rest, period.
But I do remember who won the bronze in Barcelona: Lithuania.
"How do you remember that?" you ask.
"You were eight!"
Easy. Just look at how the Lithuanian team was dressed when they took to the podium to receive their medals.
Look at these guys! No more Soviet Union?! Tie dyes?! Shades?! They are CHILLIN.I didn't have former hippies for parents. I didn't know anything about the Grateful Dead. All I knew was that those shirts were the coolest things I had ever seen.
This was before Al Gore invented the Internet. There was no Google, no eBay, no way I could go about looking for one of those shirts, the one with the tie dye, and the skeleton two-hand dunking a basketball that looked like it was about to shoot through the worm hole into a scene from "Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure." Did I still believe in Santa Claus at that time? I can't remember. If I did, it was towards the tail end of that era. But even if I did, how would even
Santa be able to get me one of those shirts? It was a lost cause. I soon gave up hope.
I spent years thinking about those tie dyed warm ups: a skeleton, clad in a Team Lithuania jersey, slamming it home to go up 96 to -- you couldn't see; his bony right hand obscured the irrelevant point tally of the visitors, as the crowd of fellow (Lithuanian?) skeletons sat mesmerized by a visible current of electricity flowing through the net.

When eBay finally did hit the scene, almost a decade later, what was the first thing I looked for? The tie dye Lithuania basketball t-shirt. I knew about the Dead by then, even though it would be a few more years still until I started listening to them. But it wasn't about Jerry Garcia or some hippie band that only pot heads with pony tails listened to. I just wanted the shirt.
A few years later, I went to Tanzania.
Tanzania's outdoor markets -- the third world's outdoor markets, actually -- are nothing but bazaars cluttered with unorganized piles of tattered, U.S. hand me down's donated to poor, helpless Africans by the American people, Joe Six Pack's who feel they can clear some storage space and do a good deed in one fell swoop. It's like a giant Value Village, where you can find anything from last decade's YMCA soccer jerseys, to Balloon Fest '91 shirts, to red, mesh trucker hats adorned with a Texas flag, perfect for wearing if you ever get to meet an American president from your home state.

These "donated" clothes are sold to the poor, helpless Africans, not given out for free, as Joe Six Pack is led to believe. It is a scam of epic proportions, this business of giving clothes away to poor, helpless Africans. But they're still cheap, so I'm not really that concerned about it. The point is this: if you look long enough, you can find some pretty amazing stuff. And that includes stuff that isn't technically for sale.
Hold on, that last sentence was an oxymoron. We're talking about Tanzania, which is in Africa. And in Africa,
everything is for sale, for the right price.
Including one of these special edition George W. Bush kanga's, which I purchased off a different woman's back one day on the sidewalk in ArushaI saw it coming from a mile away. It's hard to miss a bright, tie dyed shirt of red, yellow and green, with a dash of magenta, standing alone in a sea of black Africans who
aren't wearing bright, tie dyed shirts of red, yellow and green, with a dash of magenta. Kind of like that fat guy in the crowd at last night's town hall debate between Obama and McCain, who was wearing a button down orange shirt -- it screams out at you even if you're not looking for it.
There he was, a Tanzanian man roughly my age, standing with his friends in a nondescript corner of my village's market. I had been in TZ for a few months. I had been looking for the shirt on his back for a few thirds of my life. And there it was. At last.
I did not hesitate to approach him.
"Shingapi unataka kwa shati yako?" I asked, telling him to name a price, as I motioned towards what he was wearing.
He, too, did not hesitate, as if this were a common question.
"Elfu kumi."I guarantee you he couldn't have paid a dollar for it. Now he wanted ten.
"Fanya elfu tano," I said, offering him half that.
Again, no hesitation. A rule of life for a poor person in Tanzania is that if a random
Mzungu comes up offering you lunch for the next week, for basically nothing, you take the deal. He took the deal.
"Sawa." And he took it off, right there in the market, in exchange for TSh 5,000, or just under five dollars.
And just like that, I was the proud new owner of a XXL, 1992 Lithuanian men's basketball warm up shirt.
The one I'd wanted since I was eight years old, living on Lehigh, watching my first Olympic games.That guy gets fed, or he gets a few beers, or some
vidole of weed -- whatever he wants to do with the TSh 5,000. Me, I get something I've been looking for for years, a tie dyed, old school sports shirt, which represents the dichotomy of my personality in ways the Grateful Dead could never have anticipated when they decided to sponsor the '92 Lithuanian men's team. It was a win-win situation.
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There is a website designed for budget travelers alone in a foreign land who need a place to stay. Two, actually, that I am a member of. One is called
CouchSurfing.com; the other,
HospitalityClub.org. They're kind of like Facebook, in that they are social networking tools, with profiles and pictures and flowery quotes about yourself and the meaning of life. And you have friends and all that, electronic ones at least. But the beauty of CS, or HC, is that if you're on your own, and you don't want to throw down money for a place to stay, or even if you just want a way to meet some cool people in whatever town in whatever country you happen to be passing through, all you have to do is type in the name of the city, and voila, you have friends.
It is the most enlightened site on the Web. People you don't even know will literally give you the keys to their apartment and say
"Welcome." The first time I used it, in Istanbul, I couldn't believe Orhan was actually giving me carte blanche to rob him blind. And the second time, also in Istanbul, the people I stayed with actually insisted on paying for all my meals, too. Since that week, I've only used it one other time, when Mary and I were traveling around Ethiopia, and we landed our own room -- with mosquito net, nice -- at a house being rented by Karlijn and Ruhan, a Dutch girl and South African guy who were working in Gonder.
I've always wanted to give back a little, not just rape the system of free accommodation. To be able to help out a solo traveler in the way that so many people helped me, it would almost be cooler for me than for them. I finally got my wish a few weeks ago, just after my career as a post-Ike tree cutter had come to a close.
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:)
hello my name is mantas.
I'm student from Lithuania now traveling through America...That's the email which I saw pop up in my inbox as I was going through Craig's List looking for tickets to Austin City Limits -- the tree cutting had provided me with a rapid influx of cash, and I was treating myself; not just to my first ACL, but to a trip to D.C. to take that tour of the White House I'd been offered, and then to Philly, for the granddaddy of all college reunions. That is irrelevant to this story. What is very relevant is the key word that jumped out at me from that first bit of Mantas' email:
LITHUANIA, in flashing red lights.
I had to have been the first to read it, as he undoubtedly had sent it out as a mass message to the first to respond. I knew no one could have beaten me to the punch after I immediately hit reply and said I'd host him. This was my chance to finally give back a little; but more importantly, this was my chance to finally show off the shirt to someone who would appreciate it.
Mantas (pronounced
mon-tuss), a 21-year-old kid who decided to hitchhike across America, had been working all summer in California. He wanted to see the country. He had a plane to catch in Florida. He was that someone.
Very Kerouac. Very crazy. Very budget operation he was running.
What kind of name is Mantas? I'd never heard it. Maybe because I had only met two other Lithuanian people in my life up to that point -- the first of whom, ironically enough, was dating one of the Turks who let me sleep on his couch in Istanbul. She remembered the shirts, but didn't know where to find one. And she wasn't hot, which I hoped Mantas
would be, assuming Mantas was a girl, which I kind of assumed he was when I clicked the reply button.
A hot Lithuanian chick at my house for just one night? Sure, I'll come pick you up.
The last time I'd worn the shirt, in New York, I'd been approached by a hot Lithuanian girl on the sidewalk. At the time, I was walking to meet up with my UVa buddy Wes
"The Original Beach Kid" Petticrew, whom I hadn't seen in over a year, and whose unmistakable frame I could see barreling towards me and Hunter from over a block away. To my left, crossing the street and coming towards me, was this girl -- the second Lithuanian I'd ever met. A random girl, one I'd never seen, but one that sure was looking at me like we knew each other. In fact, she'd been eyeing me the whole time, with a big, sexy smile on her face.
"Yay-uhhh," I said, silently, to myself, in a tone I'm sure you can replicate, feeling big time.
"She must dig dudes with pony tails." Believe me, some girls do dig dudes with pony tails.
"Shabadoo bah da boo?" she asked. That's what it sounded like to me, at least, like the teacher on "Charlie Brown."
"No," I said, confused, suddenly realizing that that sexy smile may not have been intended for "me," me as in Bayless Parsley. She probably had me confused with someone else, which happens all the time (see: Ross from "Friends,"
"that guy from 'Transformers,'" and some new dude from an HBO show about Iraq).
"That's not me."
"Are you from Lithuania?" she pointed at the skeleton, still smiling that sexy ass smile. Clearly, the girl remembered the '92 team well. She wanted me to say yes. I wanted me to say yes. Hunter wanted me to say yes.
And here's what I said: "No."
"Oh." She looked disappointed.
I tried to explain, but had no time, as Wes was literally rolling up at that moment. We did the man hug thing; she walked away. I watched her model-like, tan, 5'10" frame disappear, and then I looked at Wes, who is not as attractive. I did not like Wes at that particular moment.
Besides, there was already someone else in New York I wanted to see. And as for Mantas? Turns out he was a dude, anyway. As the "Jump to Conclusions Mat" would say,
"MOOT!"
(I refuse to dumb down my humor for those of you who don't understand what this is.)-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I picked Mantas up in a church parking lot near my house. I couldn't wait to see his reaction to what I had on.
This was it, the big moment, the reason I had pounced on my first opportunity to host a couch surfer with such gusto.
This kid is gonna go CRAZY when I get out of the car and he sees what I'm wearing! I live for stuff like this. I love stories; telling them, hearing them. This was excellent, excellent story material.
We enunciated our names as we shook hands, and then practiced saying one another's. Bayless was as exotic to him as Mantas was to me. (Remember: it's
mon-tuss).
But even the brief introduction was too much for me. I had to draw attention to what I was wearing. Now I know what girls feel like after their boyfriends don't notice their nice new hair cut, or their cute new earrings. I couldn't believe he hadn't simply noticed it on his own volition, like that hot chick from New York had from across the street (hence the sexy smile and the stare down).
"Check it out man!" I exclaimed before he'd even gotten his bags in the car.
"Remember this??" I pulled out the chest like a college basketball player trying to rep his school, my eyes as wide as the kind that would be drawn by a fifth grade art student on self portrait day.
Mantas very calmly looked at the shirt, then back up at my eyes, the ones that were about to pop out of their sockets. He did not seem one iota impressed.
"Not really," is all he said. He got in the passenger's seat and shut the door.
(Pause.)
But, but ... but ... he's from LITHUANIA!
(Play.)
"'NOT REALLY'?!?!?!"Mantas obviously had no idea who he was dealing with.
"What do you mean, 'Not really'?!""I don't really follow basketball," he replied in the strangest accent I had ever heard, as calm as can be, and definitely uncertain of what it was that was making me so amped up.
There was no way for me to respond. The kid doesn't follow basketball. Not really. Plus, he was only five when the Barcelona Games took place.
I started the car and began to back out, internally cursing my new guest as I did so.
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I still wore the shirt when we took Mantas to Hooters that night, his first time. I really enjoyed explaining the pun behind the name, and its relation to the shape of the two "O's" on the Hooters sign. And I also wore it to the bar later on, where we tried our best to get him drunk. I think we succeeded. Actually, I know we did. My friends were not wearing tie dyes. Except for John, they are classified in what I would call the "young professionals" crowd. No hot girls from Eastern Europe approached me asking if I was from their country this time. That usually doesn't happen when I go out.
The next morning, I got up early and drove my guest out to I-10, all the way out to the
se habla Español part of town, so that he could have the best possible chance at catching a ride to New Orleans.
"So, what are you gonna put on your sign?" I asked. No one hitchhikes in Texas. No one. Whatever he wrote, it'd have to be catchy and disarming, at the same time.
"East."
"EAST?! That's all you're gonna write? Is East?"
"Yeah. Why?"
Why, he asks? Because like I said,
nobody hitchhikes in Texas. Nobody. And if I'm driving down the road to find a kid with long hair and the top button of a short sleeve collared shirt buttoned, and all he's holding up is a sign that says "EAST," there is no way I'm picking him up. Just look at this kid.
Much better.
I insisted we pull off the highway and go into a Target to get supplies. Like the food at Hooters and the beers at the bar, the poster board and Sharpies were on me.
"I'm telling you man, it's gotta be funny. If you make it funny, you will get a ride."
Mantas is not humorless. He had already come up with the idea to write the words,
"Not Crazy" on a sign when he was stuck somewhere in Bumblefuck, Texas -- was it Pecos? Fort Stockton? It was somewhere I'd heard of but never been to, and his methods had worked up to this point. But
East? Trying to make it to New Orleans?
Shockingly, it was me who not only bought and thought up the whole thing, but also the one who made it, right there in the Target parking lot, atop the hood of The Bob's car.
I also insisted he turn the "O" in European into a happy face. Because I remembered how much Mantas liked happy faces. (Actually, this was part of the reason I assumed he was a hot chick
:().
I dropped Mantas up ahead a few minutes, on the feeder, just like he asked I do. And I gave him one of our Parsley golf hats, from my family's golf tournament, as a parting gift. Trying to get him to advertise for me in his country as I've done for him in my own. Then we said goodbye, and I drove away.
Is this a man you wouldn't pick up? I rest my case.I was excited to finally hear a few days ago that he had made it safely back to Lithuania.
i actualy didn't use your singh (if thats the way you spell it:D) because it was way to big, wind was blowing ant it was hard to hold it:)`That motherfu......
He better AT LEAST be wearing the Parsley hat in Vilnius.
And he better have a couch ready for me whenever I make it over there.
The End.
p.s. I saw another guy wearing the shirt at ACL, the very festival I was trying to get tickets for when I received Mantas' original message. Unfortunately I was blocked from going over and saying hi by a huge security barrier. It's probably best for him; I doubt he would have been ready for the energy I would have brought his way.
I wonder how much it would've cost to buy it off this guy's back...p.p.s. Hanly, I am still mad at you for not interviewing me about this thing for Fader.