Gračanica

Here, at least, Kosovo je still Srbija

Queen Simonis, wife of the man who built this monastery in "Old Serbia," King Milutin. It's great that she was crowned by an angel and all, but the woman was forced to consummate her marriage at age six -- a trade off I'd rather not make.

"Dad, it's cool, they're with me, aight? I can sit on the right, and they'll just fly around and chill."

King Milutin. Pulling six year olds, having his son Stephen blinded because they had beef ... ah, 14th century Serbia. Luckily -- as Father Andre, a Serbian Orthodox priest I met yesterday, told me -- in Eastern Christianity, sanctity is tied much more to repentance than to morality, so Milutin was still able to become a saint.

One for the living, one for the dead.

An Orthodox church version of the handicap parking spot -- very rare, up close, front and center.

It's all about mystery.

Knez Lazar. That lovable loser.

All I can read is "tri dana," which means "three days." I think I can use context clues to put the rest of the puzzle together.

Two feet to my left was a Swedish KFOR soldier + machine gun.